How do I mount the motor in my Buggy?

Frequently Asked Questions about The Edge Buggies answered here!

How do I mount the motor in my Buggy?

Postby Baboon » Sat Apr 26, 2008 1:30 pm

Here are a couple of examples in fitting a motor to your buggy.

Fitting a Yamaha TRX/TDM into a Piranha or Hypersprint.

The Yamaha TRX/TDM850 is an easy fit in the Piranha as it’s a very compact motor.
Main consideration is lining up the chain.
First drop the motor into an approximate position, wrap a chain around the two sprockets so you can see if the chain will foul on anything.
This will give you an indication as to go up or down or forward & back with the motor for ideal position.
Make sure the word "YAMAHA" on the side cover is horizontal.
Pack the motor up with scrap steel or timber wedges to the ideal position.
Take the chain off & use a straight edge across the motor & rear axle sprocket to line up the sprockets.
Keep in mind the two sprockets may be slightly different thicknesses.
You need to square the motor to the frame, you may be able to work off the machined face under the motors sprocket cover.
Pick the most simple mount once the motor is solid & in position & tack weld that in first.
Then go around the motor & make the other mounts.
You may have to make some of the mounts removable, keeping in mind the best direction to get the motor in & out of the chassis.
To make a removable mount you can manufacture a matching pair of rectangular flange plates from flat bar.
One is drilled & tapped & welded to the chassis, the other has matching clearance holes & is part of your removable mount.
Plates of 1" x 1/4", (25x6mm) flat bar around 2", (50mm) long, with a hole in each end where they will bolt together.

Fitting a Kawasaki KLX650 into a Sidewinder

The easiest way is to sit the motor on the chassis in approx the right position.

The main thing you are trying to achieve with a Sidewinder is lining up the centre of the engines output sprocket with the centre of the rear swing arm pivot point.

Take note of the difference in height between the motor output sprocket centre & the suspension arm pivot centre.

Let’s say as an example its 40mm.

Then look at the area of the chassis that is stopping the motor going downwards by 40-45mm.

Keep in mind the motor has to drop 40mm & what area of the motor will foul on the chassis once it’s dropped down 40mm.

Isolate this area of the chassis & cut it out.

Now you can position the motor exactly where you want it.

Pack the motor into the correct position & take time to get the motor straight & square in the chassis, make sure it’s not going to move.

Now pick the mount that’s going to be easiest to make.
You can't make any rear mounts because you have cut out that section of the chassis so have a look at the lower front of the motor’s crankcase.

If you fabricate the mount & tack weld it in place so its reasonably strong, now you don't have to be quiet as careful with working around the motor, its now part mounted & unlikely to move around.

Pick the second mount to make.
The KLX has a mount on the front & back of the cylinder, the rear mount is closer to the chassis top frame so this is a good second mount to make.
It may be a good idea to make this mount a bolt on part so it’s easier to get the motor in & out.

Once you have the second mount secure & well tacked in you can remove all the packing pieces that were propping up the motor.

Now you can look at repairing the section of the chassis you cut out & re-box it around the motor.
Once this is done you can make the lower rear mount & that’s it.

Keep in mind at all times that you will need to be able to un-bolt the motor & it should easily lift out.
Baboon
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