Matt's cuda build UK

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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby matt willmett » Mon Apr 08, 2013 8:54 am

hey mj, hows it going i know where you are coming from for i have the same plans to upgrade to a busa in the future but for the time being i am sticking with the blackbird but i plan to turbo.
thanks for the offer but i dont think i will need the Headers although i am curious about the wiring loom you have got i can understand if you woiuld rather sell the loom on the engine as a whole but just for curiosity has it been shortend down to the bear minimum or is it a full loom? i also understand if you have already sold it all as i am replying ages after you have put this post ;D
let me know
matt
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby mjsork » Sat Apr 20, 2013 1:56 am

Hey Matt,
Been away working so sorry for the late reply. Afraid the loom is a standard one and I plan to sell it with the engine. Trust the builds going well. Mines at a standstill at the moment as I'm awaiting parts back from zinc plating. Are you planning to use the standard edge suspension units or are you upgrading to Fox / King. I have standard edge shocks but fancy upgrading. Don't suppose you know where in the UK is the best place to get Fox / King shocks from?
Cheers Mark.
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby keepthedirtflying » Sat Apr 20, 2013 4:51 pm

Downsouth Motorsports is the best place to get king or fox shocks, Best prices and advice, you cant go wrong there.

Hope this helps
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby matt willmett » Mon Apr 22, 2013 4:25 am

i have been in contact with andrew at milner off road i think for all round suspencion pluss springs its going to come to about £1700 :/ not the fastest of services but im in no rush so its all good. i have made a few extra parts and that will be putting a few more pics up soon but other than that not much is happening at the moment waiting for a load of laser cuttings to come back :)
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby matt willmett » Fri Dec 27, 2013 7:17 am

okay so it has been a while again since i have updated last, but here is where i am
i come accross a few problems with the rear arms not lining up but after a bit of cutting and carving we managed to get them lining up perfectly. i have made all of the spacers needed to get the suspension on and all of the wheel hubs upright. we Have finally got the rear diff into drive box and have started to look at mounting the engine and putting the front wheel hubs on. we have assembled the hub and put the front arms up to it. this is where i need you guys help if possible....

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here is the problem... i have checked all of the measurements i can think of on the arms and they all correspond with the dimensions given in plans. i also checked the position of the front main mount and that also seems to be correct, then finaly the second top arm mount is also in the correct place... with that said from looking at the pictures can you spot what i may have wrong with the arm or the frame?? if you can imagine i could move the rear mount along the box section to where the rose joint will meet up but then when extending the rose joint the threads will be very limited. im starting to think im going to have to re make the arms some how :S what do you think cheers
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby keepthedirtflying » Fri Dec 27, 2013 9:32 am

Hi Matt.

Your doing well there!!


With your issue 're the front arms. Have you checked that the base frame is 100% accurate according to the plans? What about the 2 RHS bits that run from base frame to mid frame at the front? They the correct distance apart according to the plans?
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby matt willmett » Fri Dec 27, 2013 10:52 pm

I have had a look at where you have said about and still nothing appears to be jumping out at me being a long way out I think I'm going to have to go back to the start and check the measurements and angles of the complete frame and tick them off with my mate to try to pin point what has gone wrong
Cheers!
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby matt willmett » Sat Dec 28, 2013 6:34 am

we had another look at the top arm and found that the front tube length is 3 mm long and we saw that the distance between the front mount holes are 5 mm wider which is what we think is our problem. going to look at cutting 5.5mm out of each tube length on the front arm which will correct the distance between the front mounts aswell as the extra length in the top arm :)
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby Simon1 » Thu Jan 16, 2014 9:21 pm

How did you get that diff in there mate? Did you pass it in from one side and assemble in position? Must have been a prick of a job.
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby matt willmett » Fri Feb 07, 2014 7:10 am

yes it is a bit of a pain! we have to have it all dismantled and assemble is while inside the rear box, it isnt ideal to be honest but it is all we could think of in which to get that diff into it! when we finaly put the bearings into it we will have yet more fun when wanting to get them out becuase when the bearings go into the carriers it blocks off all of the bolts creating a trap in which you cant remove the rear drive at all! we hope to have cured this by cutting slots in the carriers in which we have moddified a pair of bearing pullers to pull the bearing just over half way and then hope to tap, twist and pull the remainder out whilst maintaining asmuch strength in the carriers as possible. the wheels have arrived but they look huge! hoping that we havent bitten off more than the engine can chew! im sure she will be fine :O. had some diff inserts made especaily and we found that the distance becomes the correct size for readily avalible sierra driveshafts and cvs so i have at least one standerd cheaper part on her!
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby itchyback » Thu Feb 13, 2014 9:05 pm

You may have solved the front aa arm problem but i had a similar issue, i fixed it by winding the rod ends in further.
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby keepthedirtflying » Wed Jul 30, 2014 6:32 pm

Any Updates Matt??
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby matt willmett » Mon Sep 29, 2014 8:39 am

Hey, its been a while since my last post but i have finally had the buggy up and running, in a fashion :/
here is the build but i have come stuck with a problem and am now having to look at removing the diff and making it a solid axle as in the plans, just to get a decent drive in it. i would like to still run a diff but i am unsure on how to go about it, i first purchased some input shafts which we had custom made, stupidly we didn't have them hardened, so i traveled literally 3meters and the power just ripped one apart. so we did a bit of research and quaife said that they make there input shafts out of en30 steel and put it through heat treatment, so we thought we would go one better and we heat treated some en40 steel. well the outcome was the same apart from managing a trip around the field about twice and then finaly giving in when at the top end of second :/ i know a few of you are running quaife diffs and am curious on what size your output shafts are. i am pretty sure that quaife have only 25mm diameter splined shafts, which is the size i have apart from where the size has reduced to 22mm from where the spline size is and where the shaft is for the bearing (if you can see what i mean)
so apart from looking at making the rear end solid. i would like to know what you have possibly got diff wise.
i have high doubts that i have just gone to wild with the wheels and they are just simply too grippy and heavy for the poor diff but i know from some of you guys have used the same sort of set up so what have you got in place to prevent what is happening to me?? any adive would be great as these input shafts have now set me back a fair few £££ as im sure you can imagine
also, what do you think of her!?
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here is the first un hardend shafts we had made
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Had a bit of fun trying to form the splitter for the exhaust
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and here is the hardened shafts after a short outing :(
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby itchyback » Mon Sep 29, 2014 10:04 am

this is badass! when my buggy grows up i hope it looks like that!
I cant help you with the diff situation sorry, but if i had to guess it would be that your wheels are too big. I wanted to have big wheels too but everyone and everywhere said it shouldnt be done.
Maybe get a diff from a car with independent rear suspension and some uni joint drive shafts?? more $$ i know, i imagine there is another solution but that would be for smarter minds than my own.
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby matt willmett » Tue Sep 30, 2014 8:38 pm

Hey thanks! I do really like how it looks to be fair! It's just that rear end, haha! I did a bit of research last night and I found a site with some supposedly up rated chain driven diffs. Weather any are going to be suitable I'm not sure I am hoping one may suit it. But looking at putting a proper diff in would be a fair old job, to the extent of possibly putting the engine sideways, so it could be back to a solid rear axle.
Then I will only go and break some other parts because of the weight of those wheels haha!
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby suparoo » Wed Oct 01, 2014 8:39 am

Hi Matt, I'm also putting a diff into my Cuda. I've done heaps of research and talked to all the "specialists".

What I've ended up with is a Quaife QDF7ZR chain drive diff head. The input shafts I am going to make out of 300M which is a Modified 4340. It is used for aircraft axles and is supposed to be the go, but has to be heat treated.

The people at Quaife said that the input shafts and chain are always going to be the issue so hopefully the 300m will do the job. EN30 is a case hardening steel and while good, isn't the best.

The absolute best is a " Maraging Steel vascomax 300" http://www.magellanmetals.com/maragingc300.html it is also used for A/C axles but is a hirendous price. I paid $400.00 dollars for a foot of 5" 300m bar and Vascomax is 3x the price. The great thing about the vascomax is that it is heat treated at a very low tempreture so there is no distortion. Fry steel in USA is the place for both.
Last edited by suparoo on Wed Oct 01, 2014 7:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby Tony » Wed Oct 01, 2014 11:21 am

Matt,
The Quaife axle size is a serious problem for buggies.
As buggies tend to get intermittent traction compared to a blacktrack car & that stresses axles a great deal.
300M would be a good material to use.
Your rear tyre size does look very large, what size are they?
The bigger the tyre diameter the more stress on the axles.
The weight you are adding with those cast iron vented rotors won’t help either.
Those CV boots you have won’t last as they are too small in diameter verses the angle you’re pushing your CV’s to.
Overall a real nice job you have made of your Barracuda, well done.
"There can't be a practical reason for believing in what isn't true" – Sir Bertrand Russell.
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby Simon1 » Wed Oct 01, 2014 6:49 pm

My mate has been using the quaife diff with the axles Jet had made. I believe they were en36a. He runs the 30" wheels flogs the piss out of it and hasn't blown one up yet.

I will be using a modified Albins super diff in the reversing chain case trying to make. They have a 30mm axle.
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby matt willmett » Thu Oct 02, 2014 3:34 am

thanks for all these responses i seem to be getting a good idea about what i might have a go with now; i see what you mean about the diffs when used off road. as i was using it, from what i was told as i travled over a bump and as the diff opperated and re opperated and took more traction to the one wheel, that is when it gave most of its preasure on the shaft causing the break. i rechecked the size of my wheels and they are a 29" tall and 8" wide of tread.

the options i am now looking into will be;
discus with my shaft maker to see if the reduced area in the shaft where it has broken is necessary, or could it have a taper going from the splines to the shaft,
to see what he thinks about this steel of 300m
i am also looking into other diffs for the greater spline size of 30mm

ill keep you in formed ;D
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Re: Matt's cuda build UK

Postby suparoo » Thu Oct 02, 2014 6:44 am

Another thing you could look at, which IMO is going to help a lot with the intermittent traction problem (as Tony mentioned) is some "torsion" axles.

While I'm still in the research stage of these I'm led to believe there are some axles out there that will twist a full 180 degrees !!! and spring back with no adverse affects.

I'm hoping these would take the shock loading off the drive line.

Swayaway make some, but they don't quote any twisting numbers or whether they are gun drilled or not. http://www.swayaway.com/Axles.php

These ones aren't exactly what's needed but they quote 250 degree's of twist.

http://www.full-race.com/store/drivetra ... axles.html
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