spark no spark

Need a spark. All those tedious electrics, lights, tacho, wiring harness, etc

spark no spark

Postby Reg » Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:32 pm

The other day i plugged the complete harness up for my trx and it started.

i started it a few times over a couple of days and then all of a sudden it would'nt start.

i pulled out both plugs, earthed them and when i turn the key on and push the starter i get 1 spark only, and if i turn the kill switch or ignition off i get another spark.

all earths seem ok, coils are getting power from ign, but i noticed they both get warm when ign is on, don't know if thats normal or not.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks reg
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Postby Ron » Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:09 pm

Hey Reg got your pm,I'm no wireing guru but from your description it sounds like something simple.If it was running and then all of a sudden F$%^ed up could be a loose conn. maybe the plug socket on the and of the coil lead could be loose,had this prob on a road bike I had years ago.Was gonna say maybe check earths but you said thats all good.Cant think of anything else but if I do will let you know.
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Postby Gordy » Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:25 pm

I had exactly the same thing reg and it took me a while to work out that it was the side stand switch or the clutch switch (cant remember which one).

There is a procedure in the manual that shows a valid starting possibilities. Might be worth a check over.

I would say you have something loose. If you havent got it sorted by the weekend pm me and i'll have a look at mine. I threw the original loom away and wired up from scratch. The ECU only needs a few wires grounded one power to run the bike. I can check which wires need what then you can use a multimeter to check you have it round the right way.

Cheers

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Postby SD » Thu Jun 21, 2007 10:13 am

Reg
Your not getting a pluse on the negative side of the coils.
I recon if you connect a test light to the posive terminal of the battery and the negative wire at the coil the test light will glow.

Ive had alot of problems with the original kill switches, when even in the middle run position there was a enough crap and moisture in the switch to track a negative and loose spark. Try disconecting the kill switch.
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Postby Reg » Thu Jun 21, 2007 9:01 pm

thanks for the input guys, but still no luck.

SD tried disconnecting the kill switch but still ended up with power across the coils, any other ideas?
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Postby dakab444 » Thu Jun 21, 2007 10:09 pm

Have you bypassed the side stand and clutch switch(if you have a clutch switch)?. I had that problem on my zzr250. When I bypassed those two switches it was all sweet.
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Postby Reg » Fri Jun 22, 2007 6:51 am

yep bypassed both of those, motor turns over ok, just the problem with spark
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Postby fish » Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:13 am

I had that problem once with a KLR650 it was the CDI unit, replaced it and had no more problems.
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Postby Stevo » Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:05 am

Yeah Fish, I had exactly the same prob with my KLR 650. New CDI and I was back in business.
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Postby Reg » Fri Jun 22, 2007 8:39 pm

trying out the cdi tomorrow on another motor.
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Postby trojan » Fri Jun 22, 2007 8:52 pm

Assuming it _is_ wired up correctly. Fish is probably right.
If the coils are getting hot, without the engine running (on a CDI system) then there is definitely a problem with either the CDI or (less likely) the coil(s) themselves.

CDI only uses the coil as an amplifier not as a storage device like a points type ignition, so if the coil(s) are getting hot without the engine running that suggests the CDI is constsntly leaking current to the coil (as opposed to pulsing on "fire").
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Postby Reg » Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:05 pm

totally agree trojan, but still need to check things out.

as you know, if you go and buy an electronic bike component on spec, and it turns out not to be the fix, then you've done your money,can't return it.
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Postby trojan » Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:10 pm

Roger That! - Factory CDIs come in at ~$700 :shock:

There is a guy in SA that does replacement CDIs for ~$300. He has been mentioned (by fish I think) before so it should be searchable. If ya can't find it, I spoke to him (great guy) about 12 months ago and I'll dig up the details for you.
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Postby biggans » Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:21 pm

:shock: Stay with it Reg.... The TRX is worth the trouble. Soon you will be driving the wheels off it... tust me i know. :cry:
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Postby Gordy » Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:38 pm

I dont think reg has a cdi problem as I had exactly the same thing. It was something stupid when it happend to me. Like you could start with the clutch switch closed but not with the sidestand also closed.

Guess we'll find out soon enough.

For people looking for a new CDI, its worth picking up a copy of the motorcycle trader as there used to be a company in there that specialised in fixing them. I know they couldnt fix all cdi's but its worth a shot. They should be cheaper than the wreckers, otherwise whats the point :)
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Postby trojan » Sat Jun 23, 2007 11:50 am

Gordy, sounds like you lost (connection) to your diode block.

If the coils are getting warm without the motor running, and it IS wired up correctly, then it does not look good for the CDI.
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Postby Reg » Mon Jun 25, 2007 5:16 pm

Yep cdi had sh#t itself.

just ordered another one from what has to be the most friendly and honest bike wreckers in the country, BRISBANE M'CYCLE WRECKERS, 160 bucks del express mail, Bill and Paul up there are absolute legends. :D :D
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Postby dakab444 » Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:51 pm

Good to hear you got it sorted Reg. :) Glad you found a good wreckers as well. Its always good to know. I found Liverpool Motorcycle wreckers at Emu Plains were quite good too.

Be interesting to know what caused it to blow :?

Let us all know if you find out.
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Postby Bad Dee » Tue Jun 26, 2007 8:07 am

lol
bought a chinese copy cdi for my ct110 $15......the originals are $60
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Postby Reg » Fri Jun 29, 2007 2:47 pm

she's a goer again :D , thanks guys for your input and a big thanks to Gordy for checking the cdi and biggans for lending me his workshop manual.
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